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Let’s Talk Dog Food -
‘Dog Food 101’ - Part
1
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Part 1
I get a lot of questions about dog food and requests for
recommendations and I thought I would offer a little ‘Dog Food
101’.
I am the proud owner of two wonderful English Springer
Spaniels, Jezzie and Bruti and let me state that my dogs eat a
combination of raw and home cooked. I did a great deal of
research before settling on this as what I feel the best
alternative for their health and nutrition. I have very little
faith or trust in most of the ‘commercial’ dog food
available. This is not saying that they are all bad but
my choice is not to offer anything to my dogs that I would not
eat myself, or at least be able to eat my self.
I am a strong proponent of the raw diet because of a dog’s
basic physiology. Their DNA differs from the wolf by only
2% and wolves are basically carnivores. There is a great deal
of discussion on whether dogs are true carnivores or
omnivores. One phrase you will hear used is
‘opportunistic feeders,’ meaning they will eat what is
available. My own personal belief is that a dog is more
carnivore than anything but will be an opportunistic feeder due
to what is available to him.
Dog’s teeth are classic carnivore, they have short digestive
tracts and their bodies lack certain enzymes which make it
difficult, if not impossible for their bodies to process grains
and vegetables unless they are ‘predigested’ by processing;
cooking, mincing, grinding, breakdown by enzymes, or
fermentation through bacteria. Different grains can also be
processed to different degrees after they are ‘predigested’;
rice (72%), wheat (60%) or corn (54%).
For these reasons I tend to opt for a raw diet, and because
my dogs can be a bit finicky and picky and just plain enjoy
certain foods cooked, they also get home cooked. For
their raw diet I go by the basic raw guidelines of
10-10-80. Ten percent RMBs - raw meaty bones, ten percent
organ meat and 80 muscle meat. Several meals a week they get
home cooked which might consist of baked chicken, scrambled
eggs (they refuse to eat raw) and maybe some low fat cottage
cheese or plain yogurt. For treats they get stuff like
jerky, raw carrots which doesn’t do much health-wise but they
do enjoy them and it doesn’t hurt, same with broccoli stalks,
and a variety of home made biscuits I make myself.
As you can easily see I feed a diet that is high in protein
and even more importantly, high in digestible protein.
Protein is essential because it is utilized as the building
blocks for tissues, organs, enzymes, hormones, antibodies, etc.
and a body cannot manufacture the necessary amino acids without
protein. The most highly digestible, complete protein sources
come from eggs, muscle and organ meats. Once the body has
utilized the protein it needs, the extra is metabolized and
used for energy. Unlike fats, it is not stored by the
body. Animals fed diets too low in dietary protein may develop
deficiency symptoms like decreased appetite, poor growth,
weight loss, a rough and dull coat, and decreased immune
function.
Based on this, you can see how important it is for any food
that you feed to you to be high in meat and I don’t meant meat
by-products. Whatever you are feeding your dog, take a
minute and check the ingredient listings, if meat is not the
first ingredient, you are short changing your best
friend. Yes, they can survive on less but why should
they? Shouldn’t you be offering them what if the best for
their optimal health?
- When it comes to labeling, keep some things in
mind;
Ingredients are supposed to be listed ‘in order by
predominance of weight,’ but this refers to weight before
processing. This means a food that may contain 75% meat
prior to processing may shrink to 10% of the total weight
once the water is removed.
- Named ingredients are only required to make up 1/4 of
the total product; they may not even be descriptive of the
main ingredients.
- When checking out the ‘guaranteed analysis’ of dog
foods, take a look at the moisture content, the higher the
moisture content the lower the actual nutritious dry matter
- you’re paying more for the water and less for the
nutritious ingredients. You need to be able to
convert the percentages so that you’re comparing
‘equals.’
- Manufacturers are not required to list ingredients that
they did not add themselves such a ingredients added by
suppliers
The bottom line when it comes to labeling is that labels can
be misleading. What you believe you read may not necessarily be
what your dog is actually getting. If you really care
about your dog and its health and nutrition, take the time to
do your homework.
That’s it for Part 1 of my little ‘Dog Food 101’. Keep an
eye out for Part 2 where we’ll go more into depth of the good
and bad of some of the actual ingredients in dog foods.
©Deanna Raeke
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